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2 Stroke 15HP 2 Cylinder Marine Engine Outboard MotorBoat Engine For Sale Add to cart
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3.5HP Outboard Motor Two Stroke Boat Engine Water CooledBoat Engine For Sale Add to cart
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Hangkai 2-stroke 3.5HP Boat Engine Outboard Boat Motor Water CooledBoat Engine For Sale Add to cart
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Water Cooled 2 Stroke 3.5 HP Boat Engine Outboard Boat MotorBoat Engine For Sale Add to cart
Water Cooled 2-stroke 9.9HP 2 Cylinder Marine EngineBoat Engine For Sale Add to cart
Boat engines: outboard
The latest generation of outboards, combustion engines or environmentally friendly electric motors can be found at Campers-Shop. All of them are powerful, efficient, clean and economical. Regardless of whether you use this as an auxiliary motor for your yacht or for your inflatable boat or dinghy, whether as a long or short shaft, you will always find the best possible selection at Campers-Shop.
What was unthinkable just a few years ago has long since become a reality on the water. More and more often, boats are powered by whisper-quiet, high-torque electric motors. As a drive for bow thrusters, their directly available power has long been valued, and now they are no longer just a real help during port maneuvers. Electric motors are more and more common as outboards on sport boats. The Torqeedo is firmly linked to this success. The affinity of the name with Torpedo, which is reminiscent of lightning-fast power development, is no coincidence with these drives. With brands such as Flover and Sevylor, the shop also offers the right outboard motors for fishing boats and dinghies for fresh and salt water use.
Accessories for boat engines
The shop offers accessories for boat engines for built-in boat engines as well as for gasoline outboards and electric motors. Anyone who drives sports boats knows that everything that moves is subject to a certain amount of wear and tear. That is why you will find various offers for all engines at Campers-Shop. Whether wearing part or replacement for maintenance, such as cooling water filters, oil filters or fuel filters. The shop also offers replacements for oil pumps and impellers. At this point, think about the reserve, which should not be missing on board any sport boat for safety.
Almost everything for outboards and boat engines
Anyone who restores or rebuilds a sport boat will find various instruments and spare parts that reflect the current state of technology and thus also enable older boats to be technically rejuvenated at affordable prices. Soundproofing not only ensures pleasant togetherness on board, even when the machine is running. Modern exhaust systems ensure that emissions also remain within the framework of the regulations. Whether petrol outboard or emission-free electric motor, whether accessories for motor or boat – the quality in the Campers-Shop online store will convince you.
We are happy to pass on our specialist knowledge from more than 20 years of experience to you, not only on-site in our store, but also in our online shop. In our service area, you will find important information as well as helpful tips and tricks about your yacht, dinghy, boat engine or boat propeller.
With us you are able to get a comprehensive overview of the winter conservation and winter storage of boat engines and drives.
If you want to know more about the topic of boats, we can recommend the blog of Boatexperttip.com . The operator of this online blog is a long-standing customer of ours and can also give you many useful tips and tricks on the subject of boats and boat engines.
Do you want to buy an outboard motor? We’ll help you decide.
First of all, the good news: All manufacturers now have sophisticated engines in their range. The market is very competitive and providers simply cannot afford to offer completely unsuitable models. However, they differ in the details, so the purchase has to be carefully considered. Before you buy, you should first clarify a few basic questions:
1. How strong should the engine be?
That depends primarily on the boat. The manufacturers must specify the maximum horsepower with which the model can be driven. This depends on the design, the length and of course the stability. A minimum specification is usually not missing either. A large engine is heavy, expensive, and uses a lot of gasoline. Nevertheless, the boat should not be motorized too weakly. Firstly, this is at the expense of driving comfort, and secondly, the purchase can even be worthwhile in the long term. A small machine that constantly runs at full throttle to the limit usually consumes more gasoline than a larger model in the medium speed range. In addition, engines that are constantly working to the limit wear out faster. Therefore, when making your selection, you should stay in the upper third of the recommended range. However, some boat manufacturers are very cautious with the maximum figures, others – especially American providers – are less modest. I therefore urgently advise you to seek advice from a specialist who is familiar with the characteristics of the boat.
2. Four- or two-stroke?
The gas-guzzling, smelly and noisy two-stroke engines are a thing of the past. Last but not least, the European emissions standard has contributed to this. They have made many two-stroke engines disappear from the market. Two manufacturers have responded to the requirements with direct injection two-stroke engines. Evinrude launched the E-Tec and Tohatsu launched the TLDi. In comparison with the corresponding four-stroke engines, they require less maintenance and are easier to turn. When you put the lever on the table, something really happens! Driving fun is bought with a higher volume and a certain odor nuisance. Especially when driving slowly and with a tailwind, you occasionally sit in the exhaust fumes. In terms of fuel consumption, weight and unfortunately also the price, both variants do not take anything away. So the decision is ultimately a matter of taste. With one exception: if you want to haul or troll a lot, I recommend a four-stroke engine. Because even with the two-stroke engines with direct injection, the spark plugs soot relatively quickly. In addition, they run comparatively restlessly at slow speeds. However, it has to be said that you put a lot of pressure on the engines with permanent low-revving driving. This does not leave a mark on four-stroke engines either. With our trolling motors, for example, we have found that over time petrol penetrates into the oil, dilutes it and thus deteriorates lubrication. So the ideal towing engine has yet to be invented …
3. How about the service?
Before making a selection, you should find out about the dealer network in your area. Is there a specialist workshop that can repair my engine in an emergency? Retailers do not have all brands in their product range. If I come with a “foreign brand”, it can be problematic. This is particularly important in warranty cases and complicated repairs. So don’t buy the bargain from the Internet right away, but first check whether the prescribed maintenance can be carried out on site.
4. What shaft length do I need?
Please note the shaft length of the motor! They are made with normal shaft, long shaft and ultra-long shaft. You can find out which variant you need in the boat documentation or ask your dealer. Otherwise, you run the risk of making a bad buy. Some only notice this on the maiden voyage, when the engine suddenly draws air.
Then I divided the engines into different classes according to horsepower and described their special features. This gives you a quick overview of the peculiarities and areas of application of the machines.
2 to 6 hp
It used to be possible to drive up to an output of 3.68 kW (five hp) in Germany without a license. Therefore, the small engines enjoyed great popularity. They are particularly suitable for inflatable boats and smaller boats. Usually they are quite light and therefore quickly attached to a small boat. The only new ones in Germany are four-stroke engines, as the two-stroke engines do not meet the emission standards. However, there are still many two-stroke engines available on the used market, which can also be freely traded. These are particularly interesting because of their lower weight. The slightly higher fuel consumption is hardly noticeable negatively in this class. However, those who haul a lot are better off with a four-stroke engine. Most of the engines have built-in tanks, but they only hold one to two liters. It should therefore be possible to connect an external tank. This saves us and the environment from having to refuel on the water. Usually something goes wrong. Often the engines in this class are single-cylinder with carburettors. This technology is robust and with a little maintenance you rarely have trouble with the models. It is important to get detailed information about the cold start. Usually the engine has to be started with the help of a choke and warmed up for a few minutes before it can start. When transporting in the trunk, care must be taken to put the engine on the right side. Otherwise the oil will run out.
The smallest outboards start at 2.5 hp. These small power plants weigh between 12.4 and 18 kilograms and are either air-cooled or water-cooled.
Many manufacturers make 4.5 and 6 hp engines from identical engine blocks with just different carburetors that deliver more or less power. For those who are not so concerned about weight, consider buying a larger two-cylinder engine. These six to 15 hp engines can be throttled and thus drive without a driver’s license. They score with extremely smooth running and pulling power. The latter allows the installation of a larger thrust propeller even with throttled engines. In this way, good results can also be achieved with motors for larger boats that do not require a license. Yamaha has the smallest two-cylinder in its range with its 6/8 hp. Until recently, Honda also had a 6 hp two-cylinder on the market. This engine is very robust, but cold start behavior takes some getting used to.
8 to 30 hp
Many boat owners move in this class with companions from 3.5 to five meters. With an engine of 15 to 30 HP, depending on the size of the boat and the load, you can easily reach speeds of up to 20 knots. In recent years, most manufacturers have brought very few new models in this class onto the market. I particularly like the light and compact Honda engines with eight to 20 hp. But Yamaha also has a wide selection in this area. Mercury has very robust engines on offer. Anyone who particularly values
well advised with a direct injection engine like the Mercury 25/30 PS EFI. Switch on and drive off is the motto here. In this class, competitors only offer carburetors that have to warm up a bit.
Observe the notes!
Where wood is chopped, splinters must fall. So there are always problems with the outboards. With so much electronics and sometimes very tough use, this is no wonder. The engines are built in such a way that they protect themselves from major damage. Too little oil or a lack of cooling water are the most common causes of errors. Alarm signals and red lamps warn of this. In addition, many engines have emergency running programs. As soon as the damage occurs, the machines can only run at low speeds and are therefore no longer overloaded. This avoids a total loss and at the same time ensures the return to the port. Once there, you should go to a workshop as soon as possible.
Maintenance and repair of gasoline outboards
What should I check each time I use the engine?
- Check outboard for sufficient fuel and an open tank vent
- If the engine has been idle for two weeks or more, replace the gasoline to prevent damage from oxidation and water build-up. Additional stabilizers and a full tank minimize the risk of oxidation and condensation
- Make sure that the oil tank is sufficiently filled
- If the engine has been idle for a long time, check the engine oil for small water droplets and do not start the engine, you should find some. Serious damage to the outboard can occur.
- Check that the screw clamps of the outboard motor bracket are secure and tight
- Check that the water intake is clean and free of dirt and deposits
- Inspect the propeller. Are there fishing lines wrapped around the hub? Are there any irregularities that can lead to imbalances and thus expensive defects?
Failure to carry out conservation can lead to a “bad start” into the new season.
How should an outboard be cleaned after use?
- Flush out the outboard with a flusher. This not only applies to use in saltwater, but also makes sense for use in freshwater if the water has sand, gravel, or pollution
- Pull the flusher onto the lower part of the outboard motor and connect a garden hose. Do not open the tap more than about ¼ of the maximum possible water pressure to avoid damaging the motor.
- Start the outboard and bring it up to about 2,000 revolutions per minute (or the number of revolutions recommended by the manufacturer). Allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature so that the thermostat opens and the water can also flush the cooling system.
- While flushing the outboard motor, check the water pump to ensure adequate water flow. Carefully put your finger in the stream of water. The water may be warm, but it shouldn’t be hot. If the control jet is not very strong, it is possible that debris has accumulated in the drain pipe. If this happens, stop the engine immediately to prevent overheating and damage to the outboard.
- Try to loosen the dirt with a piece of wire that you move back and forth in the drain pipe. Restart the outboard and check the control beam. If the problem persists, you may need a new water pump.
- When flushing the engine, loosen the fuel connection so that the outboard burns the remaining fuel in the carburetor.
- Wipe the outboard motor and spray it with corrosion protection.
- Cover the outboard with a tarpaulin or cover between uses.
How should an outboard be looked after and serviced?
- Regularly check the fuel line for cracks and worn spots.
- Make sure that the fuel pump bulb is not cracked and that it can move.
- Make sure that the fuel connections of the lines are properly seated and are not leaking.
- Check the hose clamps on the fuel line for rust or corrosion
- Check the fuel tank for damage
- Check the tank vent to make sure it is working properly
- Check the tank regularly for water in the fuel. This is particularly important for fuel containing ethanol. If your outboard has a clear fuel strainer, check for any water on it. The water collects as a clear layer at the bottom of the sieve.
- Lubricate the engine tilt and steering lubrication points every 100 hours or annually (whichever comes first).
- Check the outboard motor for corrosion and replace sacrificial anodes if they are more than 50% corroded.
- Change the engine oil and replace the oil filter, if one is present.
- Replace the water pump impeller every 300 hours of use or every 3 years (more often if you use the outboard in bodies of water where sand can get into the cooling circuit).
- Check the outboard for minor damage to the paint. If there is rust or blisters, these should be removed as soon as possible to avoid major damage
How to change the spark plug on outboards
You should check your outboard motor’s spark plugs once a year. You can remove the spark plug with a special key. You can use the opportunity to treat the combustion chamber with an internal engine preservative. The bottom of the spark plug should be clean. Black electrodes or deposits lead to a loss of performance. Wet spark plugs or oil residues indicate that the carburetor mixture is too rich. Clean the spark plug and check the distance between the two electrodes. This should be 0.7-0.9 millimeters. The distance increases over time. A greater distance is a sign that the spark plug should be replaced soon.
Why a gasoline filter is useful for outboards
To keep maintenance as low as possible, it is advisable to install an additional fuel filter between the engine and tank, even if your outboard already has an integrated fuel filter. Impurities from the tank and gasoline are deposited in the gasoline filter, especially when gasoline is filled with ethanol. Once the pores of the filter are clogged, the gasoline cannot flow through enough, which can lead to a loss of performance or, in the worst case, a total failure. A petrol filter should therefore be replaced from time to time.
Filters that are dirty or clogged can quickly spoil driving pleasure.
What should I consider when inspecting an outboard?
During the warranty period, you should always have your outboard serviced by an authorized dealer with an entry in the service booklet. With regard to any warranty services that may have to be claimed, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the specified inspection intervals, otherwise, the warranty claim will be void. After the warranty period has expired, repairs and inspections can also be carried out yourself with the help of an inspection plan that is usually supplied. Changing filters, gear oil and engine oil in the outboard are usually explained in the manual. Often only Phillips and slotted screwdrivers are required for this. In many cases, changing the oil filter requires removing the outboard cover. If you are unsure how to change it, take the engine to the dealer when in doubt. However, changing the impeller, which should be carried out regularly every few years, is relatively complicated and should definitely be carried out by a specialist dealer. The recommended replacement interval can be found in the inspection plan.
How to protect your outboard against theft
Outboards can be easily protected against theft by using special locks. A tarpaulin, which is not only held by elastic bands, also makes access to the boat and thus dismantling and stealing the outboard more difficult. It makes sense to register your outboard motor with the water police.
In the event of theft, the engine can be assigned to your boat using the coding. In addition to the coding, it is advisable to document and register unchangeable, unique features with images. Coded and registered motors are of little interest to thieves, as they do not bring any profit.